 |
 Photo by Kevin Hitchcock Store patronage (above) has made a slow comeback over the last six months. |
Fashion for a New Era |
Fashion for a New Era
Design students and the fashion industry bookend the last
six months of patriotism
By April Jones
Guardsman Staff Writer
America: Open for Business. That phrase never rang so true than in the days following Sept. 11, the days when you couldn't walk into a store without being bombarded with sweaters, handbags, and lingerie all emblazened with the American flag. Red, white and blue became the must-have fashion accessory. Anyone could wear it and be instantly chic - and patriotic to boot.
Photos by Kevin Hitchcock Store patronage (above) has made a slow comeback over the last six months. |
But the bombastic patriotism of red, white and blue fashion is being replaced with a "kinder, gentler" spring: American style.
"When it (9/11) happened, clothing was the equivalent of comfort food. Now fashion has moved on," said Lorraine Wilner, chair of the Consumer Arts and Sciences Department at City College. Indeed it has.
The same flag sweaters that once waved high above the pedestals at Macy's are now tucked behind store walls with 50 percent off tags. This is just one of the many signs that red, white and blue is losing its glory. Wilner believes the trend had to wear out (no pun intended) eventually, citing the constant evolution of the fashion world and its biggest consumers: the public. "At first there was this wonderful wave of patriotism, but people have personal feelings, and they don't always want to wear them,'' she said.
What people do want to wear, according to the spring 2002 collections, is anything infused with the spirit of Americana. Designers like Ralph Lauren, Chloe and even Chanel sent models down the runway decked out in the "Prairie Look" with white (the new black this season) frilly blouses and full skirts paired with vintage leather belts and lace-up sandals. Peasant tops, faded denim and anything striped is all the rage.
The latest issue of Marie Claire had a layout aptly titled "American Beauty." It features a blonde beauty standing in front of the Grand Canyon, wearing a beautiful white eyelet top, white skirt and cool leather stilettos. She watched a rodeo and hung out with cowgirls, all while wearing a white pantsuit, a strapless white dress, even a white suede jacket outfitted with fringe. Who knew the desert could be so chic?
Back in the real world, stores such as Gap and Banana Republic offer white shirts in every possible spring style: v-neck, '70s ruffled tuxedo style, and delicate eyelet patterns
While the idea of white is wonderful, Wilner is skeptical of its success as the new black. "They have been pushing white, but the upkeep is horrible. It has to be washed or dry-cleaned," she said
The year that style will never forget is making yet another comeback: the 70s. The hippie style epitomized on the streets of San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district is suddenly chic again. Ironically, a look once associated with the anti-establishment is gaining acceptance among patriotic shoppers.
Design houses like Miu Miu matched faded floral button-down shirts with matching skirts and platforms shoes (think Laura Ingalls). Celine displayed denim peasant dresses with leather belts and turquoise earrings (Santa-Fe in the '70s?). Local stores catching up on the trend include Urban Outfitters, which had racks of peasant-style chiffon dresses in spring colors (beige, pink, blue) worn under jeans and antique-looking jewelry, and the '70s style scrunch-tie top, ala Chrissy Snow circa '79, under gray andbrown corduroy pants.
At the other end of the fashion spectrum yet related to the Americana trend is what Wilner calls "the hand approach." Embroidered tunics and handbags, in rich colors like orange, pink and green, inspired by India and Morocco, will adorn the arms of many this season.
She predicts anything handmade will be a big hit in stores, and has even advised students in her class to make something small, such as a purse, by hand. "People are looking for something else. They want to see the hand involved," she said.
One of Wilner's students, Tenisha Johnson, is doing suchand work.
Johnson, a fashion merchandising student at City College, is trying to launch a line of customized denim skirts. The skirts are reconstructed from the client's jeans to assure a perfect fit.
By removing pieces of denim and reconstructing them with panels of fabric in a myriad of patterns and colors, Johnson transforms them from basic denim to wearable works of art.
Although she creates skirts of her own design, Johnson prefers to work with clients directly when customizing a skirt. "They'll come out with a more creative skirt," she said. " It won't look like I came up with it, it will look like something they made."
When it comes to fashion trends, Johnson surprisingly doesn't have much use for them. " I try not to follow fashion trends," she explained. I want somebody to look different and stand out in what I make."
If Wilner is correct, these skirts will be successful in San Francisco. "It's nothing that hasn't been done before," said Wilner, " but Tenisha puts a creative spin on it. It's so original. She's got a good shot."
Fashion is so fickle, one minute it's a trend (red, white and blue fashion), the next minute it's a fad. These days, the trend is leaning towards a simple way of dress. And after Sept. 11, it's a trend that Americans will want to stick with. Whatever you wear this spring, follow Wilner's fashion philosophy:
"Wear what makes you feel good."