Soul food gets a vegan twist

Isaiah Kramer
The Guardsman

San  Francisco’s culinary landscape ranges like the city’s topography –  pretend Ocean Beach represents health-conscious vegetarian, vegan and  raw comestibles, while Twin Peaks is the fat-full southern eats, soul  and Creole food.

In  the city where the sea meets the mountains, two seemingly opposite  corners of the food world coalesce on one plate – vegetarian versions of  classic comfort food dishes.

Though  the trend may have kicked off in Oakland at Souley Vegan restaurant,  where they do everything from fried “chicken” to vegan mac n’ cheese,  San Francisco is an early adopter to all types of cruelty-free cuisine.

Brenda’s
One  exemplary item served up by Brenda’s French Soul Food (located on Polk  at Eddy), is the Sloppy Josephine. The vegan version of a Sloppy Joe is  boasted as “The best tofu you’ll ever wrap your mouth around.” Served on  a starchy potato roll, this lighter but no less sloppy alternative is a  touch sweeter (think Chinese pork bun) than a traditional ‘Joe.

Brenda’s  recently expanded their operation from a cramped café to a  high-ceiling, cement-walled bistro with overhead skylights, although  seating is still limited and the wait can be up to 40 minutes on  weekends. With the space upgrade also comes a dinner menu debuting in  early May.

Rhea’s
In  the realm of deli sandwiches, vegetarian fare is dominated by bland  sprouts between limp wheat bread accompanied by pedestrian toppings such  as avocado, tomato and hummus. But at Rhea’s Deli (on Valencia at  18th), a California-style corner store/sandwich shop, they offer a spicy  vegan take on the fried-chicken sandwich.

Over  a dozen lunch-spots in the city have added a crispy breast sandwich to  their menu, making it a veritable trend. Topped with cool jalapeno  coleslaw on a French roll, this sandwich has been popularized by Bake  Shop Betty’s on Telegraph in Oakland. Copycats and imitators abound.

Rhea’s  Vegan BBQ Chicken is the closest thing to a real fried chicken sandwich  for the non-meat crowd. The foundation is an Acme roll—a sure sign of a  good sandwich. The coleslaw made of carrots, red pickled onions,  peppers and both color cabbage is a fiery rainbow of flavor. The chicken  substitute is made with wheat gluten and soy protein. While it’s not a  shapely breast, the several “drumsticks” have crunchy outer skin and  moist “meat.”

Front Porch
Hidden  beyond the point where Valencia and Mission collide, The Front Porch  (on 29th at San Jose) is well known for its chicken n’ waffle brunches  and unique afternoon cocktails. Being in the Mission, it caters to a  diverse crowd, also offering vegan options alongside their Cajun-style  bar food.

If  they don’t have the only veggie po’boy in town, then they certainly  have the best one. But sandwiches aren’t all there is in the no-meat  category, Front Porch also does a spontaneous vegan dish (lunch only)  that changes with the produce available. Sometimes it’s grits and  greens. A Classic poor boy’s dish is red beans and rice. Cheap and  filling. Often served with ham, Front Porch does a vegan version as  well.

Ananda Fuara
At  dinnertime the right choice for comfort is a big slab of “Neatloaf.”  The more complex meat substitute is made from eggs, ricotta cheese,  grains, tofu, and spices. There is no other animal-free dish in the city  that replicates a savory juicy slab of meatloaf like this one. Can be  made vegan upon request, but recommended as is.

Anada  Fuara is perhaps the only restaurant worth checking out on mid Market.  It’s overtly spiritual motif, replete with saintly pictures and ceiling  high waterfall, is tacky yet calming. The waitresses wear saris,  traditional Indian garb, and speak in soft pleasant tones. All their  food is vegetarian, but the best-selling Neatloaf is the best. Many  baked goods and desert options to consider for after.

Email:
ikramer@theguardsman.com